12th September
East Jerusalem.
The lights are going up - as Ramadan nears, after dark in the Old City once traders and suppliers have finished their daily work, they stay late to hang lights from the ancient stone ceilings. Outside the Old City, along the streets a network of reds, oranges and greens look down upon the evening traffic, Regent Street style - minus the Disney.
Ramadan is an interesting time here because to all those that observe, nothing must pass the lips from sunrise to sunset, and nothing means nothing! No water, coffee, cigarettes, food – you can imagine the effect this is going to have on the already volatile sixty-a-day taxi drivers. I might try it for a day, just out of interest, but to maintain this daylight fast for the month is a challenge indeed, and I don’t envy the faithful at all. No food is one thing, but no water in this heat is downright unhealthy.
Apparently it is a great experience to be invited to a family’s breaking of the fast, as throughout the month, this ceremonious dinner is prepared carefully, and special foods are enjoyed after the long day having gone without. It would be an honour indeed to witness this, but it’s a family affair and I haven’t met any observant families yet that might offer me such an invitation. Anyway, breakfast or break fast, as always I’ll observe from whatever position I’m allowed and see what it’s all about from there.
