Alastair Mitchell

Bethlehem.

My Arabic lesson today went well, which was a little of a surprise as I only got a chance to practise last night and this morning. When I was at the conservatory in Jerusalem, Ata invited my to join their Iftar tomorrow – the meal after sunset during Ramadan. Tomorrow is the last day of Ramadan, and I get the feeling that it’s going to be a little crazy. Over the past few days, the energy levels on the street have been steadily rising, especially after dark. In preparation for the holiday that follows Ramadan, many stallholders are setting up on the pavements, selling all sorts from candy-floss to gifts and clothes, as well as lots of food. The sudden need to shop is similar to Britain during the last few days before Christmas; only most of the shopping here is done late, once everyone has eaten.
As I’m going to take part in the Iftar tomorrow, I thought I’d take my last chance to experience the fast – so tomorrow will be free of food and drink until sunset for me. I’m hoping my first taste of date juice – the recommended ‘breakfast’ - will taste all the sweeter for it.

Bethlehem.

This morning I was shown around the town of Bethlehem by one of the staff at the conservatory.  It was a very nice morning, taking in the Nativity Church and ending in lunch in quite a good pizza restaurant that has amazing views over Bethlehem and farther over to the Jordon Valley.  The hospitality I’ve experienced so far in Bethlehem is far greater than in East Jerusalem and is one of the reasons I moved, and one of the reasons that I’m glad I did.
My second history class went well today, having decided last night at 11pm what I was going to talk about, I managed to spend an hour on the music of Ancient Greece.  It’s amazing what a little late night study can do!
I received the final piece for my recital in Scotland today by fax, so am set to learn that tomorrow, before a couple of days teaching in Jerusalem then heading back to London on Friday.  I’m really looking forward to the next few weeks - both my time at home and to returning here afterwards.

Bethlehem.

I had a day off today, but in the evening went to a concert given in the Bethlehem International Centre by some of the students.  All this week in the Bethlehem branch there have been workshops with visiting Spanish musicians on Spanish repertoire - Turina, Albeniz, et al., and this was the final concert.  The students did very well considering they had the music only a week, but if they had had it earlier they could all have done a better job, so in some ways it was a missed opportunity.
Afterwards I walked home through the Muslim end of town.  After the sun has set and everyone has eaten, the atmosphere there is very excitable.  But this is unfortunately not the case in many areas of Bethlehem.  For obvious reasons, Bethlehem’s economy is based on tourism and since recent years this has been cut back a lot.  The wall affects Bethlehem a great deal – it is very close to the town, and cuts it off completely from Jerusalem, its previous main trading partner.  No West Bank produce is allowed through the checkpoint into Jerusalem, so the Bethlehem farmers now have a very small consumer base. This coupled with the dramatic decrease in tourism since the troubles came to head means that Bethlehem is a town that has a slightly insular feel.  There are many restaurants and bars intended to cater for visitors that stand empty for most of the day.  This is, of course, a thing that is seen in various places across the West Bank, but in Bethlehem it is very tangible.

Bethlehem.

After doing some work at home in the morning, I got a lift to my teaching in Jerusalem with my new landlady, who turns out to be the mother of one of my students.  I picked up the rest of my belongings from my old house on the way, and brought them back to Bethlehem afterwards, so am now fully moved in.
On the way back, I waited for a half-hour at the bus station.  Gradually more people began hanging around the stand for the bus to Bethlehem, while what seemed to be bartering with the driver was taking place.  As far as I could gather, because it was late, the driver was trying to negotiate a fee as there was talk of the fare being 10.5 shekels each, instead of the normal 5.5.  Even after we got under way, no one seemed to have agreed the fee, and not until we arrived in Bethlehem did the driver settle for the normal fare.  It amused me to see the debate going on, especially once we were on the road, and it reminded how different it can be here to at home.  It’s easy to forget.

Bethlehem.

As you will see, I’m writing this from Bethlehem.  After many weeks of uncertainty, I was able to decide where it is best to live a few days ago, and managed to sort out a new place nice and quickly.  I’m enjoying the much-improved surroundings of my new apartment and also having wireless broadband again.  It really is one of the best things since long before sliced bread.
Unfortunately, however, I left my UK plug converter in Jerusalem, so am about to run out of battery, and will therefore sign off until tomorrow.