16th April
Hebron.
Since visiting Hebron last November, nothing much has changed. The journey there took a little longer, the delay resulting from an Israeli army roadblock at the outskirts of the city, but the stagnant nature of the city itself remains. This was the second time in two days that I saw Israeli troops inside ‘Palestinian controlled’ territory during daylight hours – just the day before I drove past two Israeli army jeeps blocking a side street in Bethlehem at around 6pm. Normally, incursions into these parts take place after dark, but Israel’s willingness to go where it likes, at any time of day further displays the extent to which the entire West Bank and Gaza is occupied – ‘Area A’ (Palestinian Authority administered) included.
We were lucky in that we could leave our service taxi and walk past the roadblock before taking a private taxi into the centre of the city. Those traveling by car I estimate would have been delayed by at least an hour.
Inside Hebron, the busy market area that lies between the Old and New Cities seemed to be thriving. Not with tourists, these are a rare breed around this place, but with locals doing their daily shopping.
The sense of successful trade is a reminder that until the Israeli occupation following the 1967 war, Hebron was the commercial capital of Palestine, and is in sharp contrast to the situation just a few metres into the Old City, as seen in the next image. Where the Israeli settlers have moved in, most businesses have closed as a result of intimidation and physical attack from the settlers. The metal wire ceiling on this public, open-air road is a protective measure constructed by the locals following the rain of stones, bricks, garbage and any other potentially damaging objects the settlers choose to throw down from their first floor position.
As we stood at one shop speaking with the owner, water began falling on us. Above, two settler women were spraying water from a bottle through the metal bars of their windows. As I stepped out to document the incident on my camera, the shop owner warned ‘be careful, sometimes they put bleach in the water - to burn your skin and stain your clothes.’ He also added that contrary to what one might think, minor attacks on the locals such as this usually take place in the presence of foreigners. The settlers are clearly aware that the visits of tourists are a lifeline to the local population struggling to make a living. Needless to say, the serious attacks are reserved for when there are fewer observers.
Also unlike my previous visit, this time as we walked through the narrow streets of the once beautiful and thriving Old City, a group of Israeli troops were passing through. Even to my eyes, now used to the various oddities of West Bank life, the sight of heavily armed foreign troops striding through an urban civilian area was a little shocking, and it further enhanced the appearance of occupation. The relaxed response of the locals to this sight revealed the frequency of such activities.
The contrast in possible ways of dealing with the situation in Palestine has been unwittingly exemplified in the past days by the actions of Israel as opposed to those of the former American President Jimmy Carter. At the same time as this wise old man of world affairs attempts to meet the various sides involved in the troubles here, to condemnation from Israel, the latter has been killing civilians in Gaza. In response to the death of three Israeli soldiers following an incursion into the Palestinian territory yesterday, Israel responded with tanks and helicopters, resulting in the deaths of around 20 people. I can imagine many people constructing arguments as to why President Carter should or should not meet with Hamas leaders, but I’m struggling to imagine any that support the actions of the Israeli army as helpful.
