Monday, April 21, 2008

17th April

Jericho.

The 45-minute drive down into the Jordan Valley from the hills of Jerusalem takes you from mountainous to desert landscapes, and brings a typical rise in temperature of around 10 degrees Celsius.  In winter this makes it a great place for a day out in order to escape the cold weather, but even by this time of year it means the Jordan Valley is bordering on uncomfortably hot.  It also takes you to the lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea.

It is inconceivable to spend a year in Palestine and not float in the Dead Sea, so I decided this would be the time. The strange, no, surreal, experience of the Dead Sea begins when you spot the many elderly and often overweight women rubbing mud on each other.  When one thinks of ladies mud wrestling, this is not the image that might come to mind. 

At first, I felt confident that I would not be seen in such a condition, but as the evidence below shows, the urge to get involved proved too much.  But first, one must float, and in the ultra-salty water of the Dead Sea, once you’re in you do not have any difficulty in achieving this.  In fact, the mineral content of the water in this lowest of seas is so high that the water is actually 33% solid matter.  The classic pose is one with newspaper, so I happily obliged.

On leaving the water, the done thing seems to be covering oneself with mud.  It did feel nice, but once it began to dry the heat of the sun became uncomfortably hot so I quickly showered off then enjoyed an ice cream in the bar.

As we arrived in Jericho, the thermometer on the car was reading 39 degrees and I began to wonder what this place must be like in the heat of summer.  We took the cable car (reassuringly, this is Swiss made) to half way up Mount Temptation - here it is claimed the devil tried to tempt Christ after his 40 days in the desert - where we viewed the monastery built there in the 12th century.  I would imagine that even nowadays a building project in such a location would provide considerable challenges; quite how this was built at the time is amazing.  The monastery can faintly be seen directly to the left of the cable cars in the following image.

We then spent an hour or so enjoying the fine views over the valley from the terrace of the coffee shop, chatting with some men from Jenin who were taking time out from their course at the national police training centre in Jericho, before descending to visit some of the oldest parts of this most ancient of cities - the original parts of Jericho mark the earliest civilisation in the world.  After dropping off our two new friends at the police training centre, we went into the centre of Jericho to have a spot of lunch – Falafel of course for my vegetarian visitor – before relaxing in a coffee shop, picking up some characteristically small Jericho bananas and heading back up to Jerusalem.

 

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Thursday, April 17, 2008

16th April

Hebron.

Since visiting Hebron last November, nothing much has changed.  The journey there took a little longer, the delay resulting from an Israeli army roadblock at the outskirts of the city, but the stagnant nature of the city itself remains.  This was the second time in two days that I saw Israeli troops inside ‘Palestinian controlled’ territory during daylight hours – just the day before I drove past two Israeli army jeeps blocking a side street in Bethlehem at around 6pm.  Normally, incursions into these parts take place after dark, but Israel’s willingness to go where it likes, at any time of day further displays the extent to which the entire West Bank and Gaza is occupied – ‘Area A’ (Palestinian Authority administered) included.

We were lucky in that we could leave our service taxi and walk past the roadblock before taking a private taxi into the centre of the city.  Those traveling by car I estimate would have been delayed by at least an hour.

Inside Hebron, the busy market area that lies between the Old and New Cities seemed to be thriving.  Not with tourists, these are a rare breed around this place, but with locals doing their daily shopping.


The sense of successful trade is a reminder that until the Israeli occupation following the 1967 war, Hebron was the commercial capital of Palestine, and is in sharp contrast to the situation just a few metres into the Old City, as seen in the next image.  Where the Israeli settlers have moved in, most businesses have closed as a result of intimidation and physical attack from the settlers.  The metal wire ceiling on this public, open-air road is a protective measure constructed by the locals following the rain of stones, bricks, garbage and any other potentially damaging objects the settlers choose to throw down from their first floor position.


As we stood at one shop speaking with the owner, water began falling on us.  Above, two settler women were spraying water from a bottle through the metal bars of their windows.  As I stepped out to document the incident on my camera, the shop owner warned ‘be careful, sometimes they put bleach in the water - to burn your skin and stain your clothes.’  He also added that contrary to what one might think, minor attacks on the locals such as this usually take place in the presence of foreigners.  The settlers are clearly aware that the visits of tourists are a lifeline to the local population struggling to make a living.  Needless to say, the serious attacks are reserved for when there are fewer observers.

Also unlike my previous visit, this time as we walked through the narrow streets of the once beautiful and thriving Old City, a group of Israeli troops were passing through.  Even to my eyes, now used to the various oddities of West Bank life, the sight of heavily armed foreign troops striding through an urban civilian area was a little shocking, and it further enhanced the appearance of occupation.  The relaxed response of the locals to this sight revealed the frequency of such activities.




The contrast in possible ways of dealing with the situation in Palestine has been unwittingly exemplified in the past days by the actions of Israel as opposed to those of the former American President Jimmy Carter.  At the same time as this wise old man of world affairs attempts to meet the various sides involved in the troubles here, to condemnation from Israel, the latter has been killing civilians in Gaza.  In response to the death of three Israeli soldiers following an incursion into the Palestinian territory yesterday, Israel responded with tanks and helicopters, resulting in the deaths of around 20 people.  I can imagine many people constructing arguments as to why President Carter should or should not meet with Hamas leaders, but I’m struggling to imagine any that support the actions of the Israeli army as helpful.


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Friday, April 11, 2008

12th April

Bethlehem.



Over the past weeks, most of my time has been spent in the conservatory, both in preparing my own students for upcoming exams, and also in covering the teaching of a colleague performing the three-monthly visa renewal trip.  Therefore, I have not had much to write about, though I just came across the following few paragraphs that I wrote back in January and never got round to posting, following the visit of George W. Bush to the Middle East.  Unfortunately, they seem as relevant now as they did back then.

______________

From the inside, it appears that the world is watching, but it also seems like it doesn’t see anything.  Certainly, George W. Bush didn’t see much on his recent visit to Palestine, other than the inside of a few offices and of his own motorcade.  For if the world saw what was happening here, its reaction would be different.  The reason I have come to this conclusion is that what is happening in Palestine is very simple, and always has been very simple.  It is often dressed up as something incomprehensibly difficult to understand, but that obfuscation only serves to hide the truth - the facts, and the true intentions.  To understand both these things, we must know a little of the history to the current situation.

Palestine’s fate was sealed when the UN agreed to cut the country in half, to accommodate the roughly 30% Jewish population with their own state.  Almost all of this 30% were first generation immigrants.  The indigenous Jewish population of Palestine was around 4% at the close of the 19th Century, and until the massive immigration during the early 20th Century they enjoyed good relations with their Muslim and Christian Arab brothers.  Yes, the Jews of Palestine were Arabs too.  In fact, this was one of the few corners of the world where Jews lived entirely without persecution.  It is ironic then, that it was this particular spot that was made to pay the price of Europe’s calamitous treatment of Jews in the decades leading up to the Second World War.  The second nail in the Palestinian national coffin was when the new State of Israel was left unchecked, and unpunished, for its expansion into 78% of the country of which it was originally given half, and its murderous ethnic cleansing of that area.  These acts attracted sensible enough UN Security Council resolutions at the time, but as soon as it became clear that these resolutions would never be enforced, Israel became above the law, and has remained there ever since.

The widely held belief that Israel was attacked first and that the Palestinians fled out of fear from the invading Arab armies is easily shown to be false by the fact that 300,000 Palestinians had fled their homes, to become refugees until this very day, before a shot was fired between the Arab Liberation Army and the State of Israel.  Over 700,000 would be made refugees by the end of the offensive.  The UN resolutions made in connection with these events are unequivocal in that the refugees of this ethnic cleansing must be given their right of return, or compensated.  No President, or anyone else for that matter, can change this fact by stating that we must move on since ‘things didn’t work out’.  To add insult to injury, the Jewish ‘Law of Return’ is an absurd piece of blatantly racist legislation that states if you are Jewish, then you have the right to settle in Israel.  Who thinks that it is acceptable to move onto the land of someone forced from it at gunpoint and forbidden to return, on the basis that you are the right religion, and they are the wrong religion?

This policy continues today.  The residents of the West Bank, where they are unlucky enough to live on land desired by Jewish Settlers, are under pressure.  Their presence in these parts is being made increasingly tenuous by restriction of movement to the point they cannot work, and military domination.  In addition, the settlers too are under pressure – financial pressure.  If you are willing to break international law by living in occupied land, then you get a loan that you don’t have to repay if you stay ten years.  Why is it that the Israeli government can actively encourage these illegal acts of settlement in occupied lands, acts which were agreed would be stopped as part of the ‘Road Map’, and not a word is mentioned on it.  Against this backdrop, Israel’s criticism that Palestine has not honoured its obligations under the ‘Road Map’ seems ridiculous.  Especially so, as Israel clearly has the ability to honour its obligations, yet a profoundly weakened Palestine since the international boycott of the democratically elected Hamas, has not.

So it is no surprise that we have arrived at an impasse.  Or rather, that we have been at one for some time now. Equally, it should be no surprise that we are not going to move from that impasse any time soon.  And this is the problem for Palestine - the impasse suits Israel just fine.

Let us consider Palestine’s viability.  I heard a good comparison between Palestine and a prison, but not for the usual reasons of describing the treatment of Palestinians at the hands of Israeli soldiers (even the army is euphemistically called the Israeli Defence Force).  If you look at the map of a prison, the prisoners appear to have rather a good deal.  They have lots of space when you add up all the cells, the cafeteria, gym, library, exercise yard and so on.  All the guards have is a few offices, a few corridors and a few keys.  Having 95% of your territory is not enough, if the 5% is retained by a system designed to imprison you, and this is exactly what is happening in Palestine.  While the Israeli settlements remain, Palestine is simply not a viable country, and therefore the two-state solution is also clearly not viable.  And the longer this goes on, the less likely anything is to change.

Towards the end of the 20th Century, we realised that cold wars were not a great idea, and we have known for a while that hot wars are no better - especially not in this part of the world.  So Israel has formed the perfect response.  It is waging a long and warm war, and as long as the rest of us allow it to pass under the radar, it will continue to be devastatingly successful.


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Friday, April 4, 2008

25th March

Eilat, Israel.


In order to share a taxi with Ghassab back to Aqaba, where he was meeting another group of tourists to guide around Petra, we made an early start, arriving in Aqaba by around 9am.  After waiting at the visa office on the Jordanian side for around 15 minutes, I paid the exit fee of about £3.50 and walked back to the Israeli side of the crossing.

After having been carried around in my pocket for the last six months, my passport is beginning to look suspiciously dog-eared, with the photo page becoming slightly delaminated, and an air bubble appearing over my photo.  This caused some doubt in the mind of the first border guard I presented it to, but not enough for serious delay.  After a few minutes I was in the main security area, and after about ten minutes of questioning I was allowed to enter with a new 3-month tourist visa as desired.

After being ripped-off by the taxi that took me the short distance from the border to Eilat centre, I had some breakfast then walked down to the beach area, to see what Eilat had to offer.

Perhaps I am not the best judge, but it seemed a nice enough resort town - they have made the best of some appalling sixties and seventies architecture, and the beach area is well done.  It is certainly better for the absence of Daily Mails and ‘English Breakfasts’ on sale that are an all too common site in many other Mediterranean holiday spots.  After calling the coach company to rearrange my return coach, I had around 5 hours to wait so I went to the only bookshop I could find and bought a newspaper (not the Daily Mail) and a book (worse than the Daily Mail).

Having recently read Norman Finkelstein’s demolition of Alan Dershowitz’s work, and in the interest of reading a broad range of material, I found Dershowitz’s latest book tempting.  After finding a quiet spot in one of the many beachfront bars, I began reading, taking care to shield the cover from view lest someone might think I actually take this sort of thing seriously.  I’m not going to comment on the specific contents of Dershowitz’s book except to say that after reading Finkelstein, I honestly thought that he must have been exaggerating Dershowitz’s faults. To my disbelief, I realised that Finkelstein was correct - Dershowitz’s work is so atrocious both in terms of academia (glaring factual errors as well as a substantial dose of deceit by omission) and in moral judgment, that at times I found myself muttering under my breath ‘What! You can’t say that!’

I recommend taking a look at some of his work, possibly alongside a critique by someone such as Finkelstein – you will not find a clearer example of ludicrous propaganda parading as academic enquiry.  It reminds me of something I read once on the subject of Israel and Palestine that pointed out how normally sane people can go totally insane whilst discussing this issue.  I can’t vouch for Dershowitz’s sanity on other subjects, but on this one he is as off-the-map as I have seen.


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